By his mid-twenties, Merlin Labron-Johnson was already famed for his cooking at London restaurants Portland and Clipstone. But he gave it all up to pursue his back-to-the-land dream, moving to the town of Bruton in Somerset, a rural haven for food and art lovers in south-west England. He has brought his culinary aspirations to life with Osip, a tiny farm-to-table restaurant where diners put their faith in the chef instead of choosing from a menu. Labron-Johnson cooks an ever-changing menu based on what arrives on Osip’s doorstep that day. Perhaps raw vegetables and herbs with a cream of bread and toasted sesame; Devon eel with cucumber, russet apple and chervil; apricot and mead sorbet with local honey and bee pollen. For a more casual experience, try Labron-Johnson’s neighbouring wine bar and bistro, The Old Pharmacy.
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