
Chef Seong-il Kim is a wise man. It might seem effortless to produce beautiful food. It can be much more difficult to do this within the context of the traditions of a country or a particular region. At La Yeon in Seoul's famous Shilla Hotel, Seong-il Kim serves steamed cabbage with crab meat, braised abalone with barley porridge and perilla seeds, Hot Pot Royal with seasonal fish, slices of Korean beef, and vegetables in beef broth. The focus is on the quality of the principal ingredients, such as the meat. It's all about subtlety; familiarity for Koreans and new horizons for foreigners.