
It’s more than 70 years since the Yamada family opened Yanagiya in the town of Mizunami in the mountains of Gifu. Masashi Yamada and his brother, the third generation of chefs, still use the irori, a small square pit for grilling skewers. When in season, the Yamadas serve game from the mountains. First, in November, there’s duck, then wild boar in December. Spring is the season for freshwater trout. A little paradise on earth and a journey back in time.