There are so many changes to the Cococo group in St Petersburg, where Matilda Shnurova has split her old restaurant in two: the high-end CoCoCouture, and the more casual CoCoCo Bistro. The old space becomes Bio My Bio, a restaurant free from sugar, gluten or lactose, a complete novelty in the Russian market. CoCoCouture showcases Russian products such as lake fish with gooseberry and mackerel, young sturgeon, and duck with pickled pineapple.

The former Corner House chef Jason Tan has chosen to focus on plants: vegetables, tubers, herbs, spices and fruits are the bases for his new spin on sauces. One example is Jamboree onion with lightly marinated pearl onions, yellow onion purée and vegetable broth flavored with grilled onion and kombu essences, accompanied by Oscietra caviar. His interiors are contemporary and decked out in greenery.

Santiago Lastra masters Mexican inspiration and British ingredients. After holding events in 27 countries, Lastra moved to London to offer new wave Mexican cuisine with dishes such as langoustine and sea buckthorn tacos, lamb leg tostada cured in gooseberries with walnut oil and fermented chillis, and grilled octopus in lamb fat.

In “normal” times, Curtis Duffy and Michael Muser's restaurant could have been the opening of 2020 in the US. The duo used to work at Grace in Chicago, a great restaurant which closed in 2017. With Ever and its futuristic interior, they’re hoping to surpass themselves again. On the menu for $285: Maine scallops and mango from Florida with melted lardo and hoja santa leaves; wagyu beef surrounded by blood orange, roast Jerusalem artichoke mash, and marinated romanesco.