Before opening his own restaurant, Buono, 33, who has worked with David Kinch and Santi Santamaria, was Mauro Colagreco’s number two at Mirazur. Today, he’s working in a small restaurant with the help of his fiancée and a partner, where you can eat for around 40 euros a head. The food is Italian, though sometimes more broadly Mediterranean, and always packed with flavor, as a tribute to his late Catalan master Santamaria. This is one to visit as soon as it reopens.

After an apprenticeship with Hans Zahner at the Royal Monceau and four years as sous chef for Thierry Marx, Mory Sacko, 28, signed up for Top Chef, became a household name and opened his first restaurant. African and Japanese inspirations produce dishes such as sole in banana leaf, turbot and plantain in Shito sauce, Yassa chicken, paradise pepper, creamed rice and yuzu followed by a warm chocolate ganache with smoked salt, or wasabi ice cream. Some dishes come with their own glass of saké.

29-year-old Daniel Smith opened his fine dining pub in England’s smallest town, Fordwich, Kent in 2017. A graduate of London’s Clove Club, he brought his own brand of elegant cuisine with an edge to this tiny outpost near Canterbury and draws on the area’s outstanding produce - Kent is known as the garden of England - to deliver a seasonal menu with finesse but no pretence.

34-year-old Josh Boutwood juggles constant innovation at The Test Kitchen with his other concepts Savage and Helm, and his job as executive chef at The Bistro Group managing 130 restaurants across the Philippines. In late 2019 he re-opened The Test Kitchen with a new address and formula, switching from tasting menu to à la carte but maintaining the same level of artistry.

Peruvian Francesca Ferreyros, 31, is an innovator within the fusion field and one of the most important voices in Peruvian cuisine. After time in Ivan Kisic’s kitchen in Lima she trained in Europe at El Celler de Can Roca and with Gaggan Anand in Bangkok. She has investigated the traditional foods and techniques of Peru’s indigenous peoples for upcoming opening UNE (delayed by covid) which will present South-East Asian and Amazon fusion. Meanwhile she is running her “covid baby” Baan, a relaxed concept in Lima serving Thai, Vietnamese, Burmese and Indonesian flavors.