Pastry awards 2023

In 1993, Pierre Hermé's creation ‘La cerise sur le gâteau’ (the cherry on the cake) captivated audiences at Fauchon in Paris. As a fourth-generation confectioner, he sharpened his craft under the guidance of his father and the esteemed Gaston Lenôtre. By his mid-teens, Hermé's talent was unmistakable, and he went on to anchor Fauchon's pastry department for over a decade. In the 1990s, Hermé broke with convention by organizing pastry shows reminiscent of high-fashion events, seamlessly blending culinary art with runway flair. These innovative showcases, including Kawai and Désirs, didn't just earn him accolades like ‘the Picasso of Pastry’; they reshaped the global pastry scene. Hermé's reimagining of the macaron, particularly the iconic Ispahan, influenced pastry chefs around the globe. Through his international boutiques and the 2005 magnum opus, the ‘ph10’ cookbook, Hermé elevated pastry to an esteemed art form, inspiring and paving the way for future pastry maestros.

Known as ‘The Chocolate Guy’, French-Swiss Amaury Guichon regularly stops pastry lovers in their tracks with his outsized creations and outstanding creativity, and has built the world’s biggest online community in the pastry field. His chocolate giraffe amassed one billion views on Tiktok in 2022; there’s also a kangaroo, orangutan, and even a smoke-breathing dragon, while his chocolate giraffe stands over 2.5m tall. The 32-year-old prodigy from Haute-Savoie left home for the US a decade ago, working at the Jean-Philippe Pâtisserie before launching his Las Vegas Pastry Academy. Watch him as presenter and judge on awe-inspiring Netflix show School of Chocolate, where he shows others how to defy the technical limits of pastry.

You haven’t tasted a cookie until you’ve torn into one of Jeremy Coste’s creations at Crème. Already a firm favorite in London’s Soho and Notting Hill, for 2023 Coste brought ultra-gooey cookies, coffee, and soft serve ice cream to Le Marais, overseen by executive chef Gabrielle Coste. It’s brave to come to Paris to sell US-inspired cake, but Crème’s unique offering of giant cookies in flavors from white chocolate and miso to raspberry rose and cafè crème is a welcome addition to the city’s experimental pastry scene. Crème has also just expanded out of Europe to open in Bahrain.

Originally a pandemic pop-up, Melbourne’s Tarts Anon from former Dinner by Heston head pastry chef Gareth Whitton and partner Catherine Way, has stood the test of time. Early fans had to collect their tarts, in flavors of lemon and rhubarb or sour cherry and almond financier. When the couple began taking orders online, these quickly sold out. The solution? To open not one but two Melbourne pastry shops in the past year, in the Cremorne and Collingwood neighborhoods. Queue for whole, half or single slices of tarts described by Whitton as “approachable but refined”. We’ll race you there for the smoked pecan & butterscotch or cherry & gingerbread.

As one of Argentina’s best loved pastry chefs, Belén - or Belu - Melamed has focused on production and education until this year, when she finally opened a shop-front in Buenos Aires, designed by sister and business partner Camila. The bijou outlet with its striped awning over a window and sidewalk stools, proved an immediate hit for fans of modern Argentine pastry. Although the country is known for its dulce de leche and alfajores, Belu plays with flavors, introducing savory and spice, and experiments to achieve lighter, low sugar pastry. Elsa, a bestseller, is an almond sablé topped with hibiscus and vanilla mascarpone, named for the sisters’ grandmother, who inspired their early love of pastry.

A master pastry chef who distills the essence of the Côte d’Azur in his magical creations, from crisp green apple and fragrant peach to ripe figs, and herbs. After twelve years at Eze’s iconic restaurant La Chèvre d’Or, Dugourd and his wife Aurélie have opened their own shop in Nice, where you’ll find his classic vanilla Saint Honoré year-round, as well as his trademark trompe de l’oeil pâtisserie including the peach melba and whole lemon cakes. Dugourd has also promised us a Paris pastry shop, where Yann Menguy’s La Goutte d’Or was, in the 18th.

An exquisite example of the new wave of innovative bakeries shaking up the Parisian pastry scene, from couple Solenn Le Squer & Thomas Padovan who make every product with personal love and care. Frappe sells a wide range of artisan breads and pastries as well as its signature Frappe croissant roll - rounds of flaky croissant full of flavored crème pat. Does the name Le Squer ring a bell? Solenn is the daughter of Christian, legendary chef at Le Cinq at Hotel Georges V, while baker Thomas Padovan has worked at Georges V, Plaza Athénée, and Ducasse restaurants in Paris and New York.

Plant-based pastry has been a challenging prospect for an industry reliant on butter and cream, but Harrod’s head pastry chef Philip Khoury has proved beyond doubt it is possible to make exquisite cakes without animal products, and without compromising on appearance, flavor, finesse, or creativity. “Plant-based baking almost requires you to forget what you know and start over,” says Khoury, who is unique in bringing his radical approach to a heritage brand. “Vegan recipes require a lot of reformulation and reinvention.” For 2023, his book A New Way To Bake shares some of his sought-after secrets to inspire a new wave of plant-based pastry chefs.

Trailblazing pastry chef Yann Couvreur has a trio of shops in Paris and a string of books, including two for children, to his name. His organic pâtisserie, chocolate, and frozen desserts are guided by his commitment to true seasonality and respect for nature, whether it’s his apricot, almond, and lemon thyme tart, a slice of raisin bread, or his infamous vanilla mille-feuille. Although he is a master of classic French favorites, you won’t find any raspberries in his shops in winter, or artificial colorings or flavorings at any time of year. His strong ethics and sustainable approach have made him a success around the world, with openings in Seoul, Dubai, Miami, and a new pastry school in Paris.

Motorbike-loving pastry chef Lauren V. Haas has a string of revered institutions on her resumé, but she remains devoted to questioning methods and challenging her industry every step of the way, in particular in the sustainability space. Haas studied Sustainable Food Systems at Master’s level and inspires pastry chefs to think beyond plastic with her recycled paper molds, and to use sustainable ingredients such as Cacao Barry’s WholeFruit chocolate. She is currently Professor at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA), Greystone and has worked at The White House, the Hotel du Pont, and the Inn at Little Washington. An inspirational game changer who can set new standards at every level of the pastry industry.

When chefs like self-taught Jérôme Raffaelli begin to break rules and develop new ways to make outstanding products, it makes the pastry industry stronger. A pioneer in plant-based pastry, in 2018 Raffaelli opened the first 100% vegan bakery in Marseille with co-founder Kévin Yau. But Oh Faon!’s ethics go far beyond veganism; all its products are rooted in the region, using seasonal fruits from within 25km, and the chocolate and flour is organic and made in France. The result? Healthier, flavorful pastry firmly rooted in the local culture, perfectly expressed in ‘Balade en Garrigue’, a take on pine nut tart made with almond cream, pine nut praline, and rosemary-infused cream.

Fiona LeLuc devotes herself to sablé biscuits as the base for her signature creations, celebrating the potential of these humble biscuits, which are integral to the French pastry tradition. Her fanciful fruit treats include ‘Le Ballet des Vénus’ of poached comice pear, chantilly, and Madagascan vanilla cream on sablé; and ‘Carmen’ of black cherries, raspberry confit, and a melting almond biscuit. Bontemps, also known for its mini sablé sandwiches filled with flavored creams, might be the prettiest shop in all of Paris. Its two locations - two pâtisseries with a ‘secret garden’ courtyard restaurant at Rue de Bretagne - are full of charming antiques sourced by chef LeLuc and her sister Fatina Faye, from delicate glass pendants to decorative tiles and vintage plates.

Travel with us to Vienna, one of the world’s most treasured destinations for fine pastry and coffee houses, and step inside Demel, a cavernous mirrored shop and café with elaborate gilded cornices and huge globe chandeliers. A Viennese fairytale founded in 1786, Demel produces the finest examples of haute Austrian breads and cakes, protecting the legacy of classics such as strudel, Sachertorte, Esterhazy torte, and Dobostorte, as well as the grand tradition of making time for coffee and cake in beautiful surroundings. King Charles and Queen Camilla recently visited during their Royal visit to Austria.

It’s not easy to bring something new to the city that never sleeps, but Korean-born, French-trained Eunji Lee does this over and over with her elegant and playful creations, from her famed ‘Baby Banana’ (banana sponge, chocolate ganache, coffee ice cream and banana crémeux) to her lifelike ‘Corn’ mousse cake, a product that takes three days to make and confirms Lee as a chef working at the very top of her game. She sells 400 of these a week at her Flatiron boutique, which she opened after training at Ze Kitchen Galerie and Le Meurice, before moving to New York’s modern Korean restaurant Jungsik in 2016. Her blend of French skill, Korean flavors, and twenty-first century whimsy marks Lee out as a pastry chef to watch.

Visionary pastry chef Tejasvi Chandela knew something was missing in her home city of Jaipur in Rajasthan, and her love for baking led her to study at Le Cordon Bleu and open Jaipur’s first pâtisserie, in 2013. Although she is known and loved for her French techniques, it’s her attention to US-inspired comfort foods and feel-good desserts like her Smores chow bun, individual banoffee tarts, and Biscoff chocolate layer cake, that draw crowds to Dzurt. Meanwhile, Chandela is pushing boundaries with Indian heritage flavors in pastry, such as Pink Guava Chilli & Gajak petit gateau, Clementine Ghevar entremet, and Lamington Pistachio Soan Papri.

Thai-born chef-patron Dej Kewkacha opened his first food business at 22 with his brothers, and now operates over 50 F&B outlets including Thailand’s most popular Japanese dessert cafés, Kyo Roll En. But it’s Kewkacha’s passion project, Kyo Bar, that demonstrates his outstanding skill and creativity in the pastry field, marking him out as an exemplary talent, even though he is self-taught. Kyo Bar serves an omakase dessert-only menu of Japanese and Thai ingredients, such as pear and black pepper ‘Ravioli’; ‘Zen Garden’ with sesame, white bean paste, and cheese; and his sweet interpretation of ‘BBQ’.

Chef and entrepreneur Mayada Badr stands out as a culinary visionary. As CEO of Saudi Arabia’s Culinary Arts Commission, she blends innovation with tradition. Trained at Parsons and Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Badr’s culinary viewpoint is unique. In Jeddah, her pâtisserie Pink Camel is celebrated for its macarons, contemporary breakfasts, and fusion of global flavors as well as her crêpes and use of za’atar. In 2018, Paris's Potel et Chabot asked her to craft a dessert menu for the Louvre's Al-Ula gala, highlighting Saudi tastes. Badr is also passionate about culinary education and works with the Ministry of Agriculture to promote sustainability and boost local food tourism.

High end and high energy, Ophélie Barès trained in the very best hotel kitchens, but now you can walk into her newly-opened bakery and pâtisserie, Encore, for your daily bread. Known for Qui sera le prochain grand pâtissier, and as a judge on Académie des Gateâux, Barès offers a wide range of breads made with heritage French grains and traditional viennoiserie, but there’s plenty for the sweet-toothed too, from a cheeky chocolate bread and cookies, to her elegant coconut-mango-passion entremet. An outstanding talent in our exciting pastry field.

An impeccable afternoon tea that marries a traditional form and location with bold, playful pastry. From the Louise Bourgeois art to the illustrated menu, every detail of the Nicolas Rouzard afternoon tea at Jean-Georges at The Connaught in London’s Mayfair, complements the overall experience. The sandwiches blend British combinations with contemporary flavors, from Montgomery cheddar with peach chutney to salmon with chipotle corn and coriander on rye. The pastry is sublime, with whimsical touches such as cotton candy and a chocolate fondue. The tea selection is exquisite, the service effortless. Don’t want to leave? Pick up one of Rouzard’s signature pastry ‘hounds’ from The Connaught Pâtisserie on your way out.

Step off the sidewalk and into wonderland. We salute Rocambolesc for putting the fun back into fine pastry. This sweet offshoot of El Celler de Can Roca now has four shops across Spain and a new opening in Houston, Texas. Each one is a Willy Wonka-esque playground for customers. Soft-serve comes with inventive toppings from scorched meringue and marshmallows to praline and sponge cake; ice lollies are shaped into noses, bears, and even Darth Vader. The interiors pop with playfulness and nostalgia, reminiscent of a fairground but full of modern ideas and flavors, as you’d expect from Jordi Roca, one of the world’s best pastry chefs, and Ale Rivas, the business visionary who delivers this peerless concept to eager customers.

A titan of Italian pastry drawing fans to the country’s fashion capital. Gianluca Fusto is a master craftsman of classic techniques but brings his own voice to every creation, standing out for his stylish, minimalist aesthetic. His flagship store is a must-visit for anyone interested in exquisite pastry and chocolate. Fusto Milano is an expansive boutique, research lab, workshop, and event space, and a dream come true for Gianluca when he opened in 2020 with his wife and business partner, Linda. “Pastry is like an alphabet,” he says, “in which the letters are the ingredients, and if we know these letters and the technique well, we can compose something exceptional.”

BRIX Desserts is one of a kind in the United Arab Emirates, serving the only dessert tasting experience in the Middle East. Pastry chef Carmen Rueda Hernandez designs her menus as multi-sensory experiences, guiding diners to gastronomic destinations from Japan to Mexico, or through the four seasons, as they try her award-winning creations and drink pairings. She has worked at El Bullí and Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, and runs an all-female team in Jumeirah Fishing Harbor, Dubai.

When Pâtisserie Rhubarbe arrived on the Montreal pastry scene in 2010, it shook things up, setting new standards of expertise, freshness, and seasonality for cakes and pastries. Chef Stéphanie Labelle, inspired to work in a kitchen by Anthony Bourdain, and with experience at Pierre Hermé, blends sweet and savory, floral and herbal, to demonstrate the reach of local produce and share new flavor experiences with customers, from pistachio dacquoise topped with corn chantilly and wild blueberries, to a melba eclair made with verbena yogurt and peach compote, and a Paris-Brest with lime, strawberry, and tarragon. And, of course, plenty of rhubarb when it’s in season.

In a country famed for its appetite for beautiful pastry, cakes, and chocolate, Pâtisserie Asako Iwayanagi stands out for its elaborate parfait desserts, tall glasses of layered cakes, mousses, sorbet, and fruit that change with the seasons and resemble miniature terrariums. Parfait Bijou Raisin is built around a grape sorbet and feta gelato, with pine and shiso, grape, matcha, and lemon jellies, pistachio granola, chestnut mascarpone mousse, and vincotto sauce; each comes with a map. Iwayanagi previously worked in textiles and her eye for color and texture runs through her work, while the spacious store is a brutalist backdrop of gray concrete. There are also breads, gelato, crepes, and afternoon tea to pair with Japanese, tea, coffee, and sake.

Yann Menguy broke some hearts when he closed his Paris boutique, but his Martinique pâtisserie is well worth the detour. The highly skilled pastry chef may have swapped the Seine for sun and sand, but he’s still creating classics like his popular vanilla tart and kouign-amann along with exotic fine pâtisserie such as Le Mont Fuji with yuzu and pineapple, a lime and coconut religieuse, and a lifelike mango-shaped cake. An exceptional example of marrying classical pastry techniques with island flavors and attitude.