Prix Méditerranée 2023

Living legend Alain Ducasse was born in Castelsarrasin in southwestern France in 1956, where he was brought up on his grandmother’s authentic French cooking, which influenced Ducasse’s own style. Pivotal events in his career include apprenticeships with Guérard and Vergé, as well as meeting his mentor Alain Chapel. As the sole survivor of a plane crash in August 1994, aged 27, Ducasse pushed himself and his work, becoming an international name when he was appointed head chef of the Hotel de Paris in 1987. Ducasse was serving simple, rustic dishes from Italy and the south of France well ahead of the rest, and thanks to his high-end restaurants in London, Paris, New York, and Tokyo, he soon became the most decorated chef by restaurant guides and awards. He has also built a seamless business to train staff and ensure the quality of all his establishments around the world. But for Alain Ducasse, cooking remains first and foremost a craft that demands hard work and the best ingredients.<br/><br/><a href='https://www.flipsnack.com/gastronomyobserver/alain-ducasse-by-jorg-zipprick-eng/full-view.html' target='_blank'>Download</a> "How Alain Ducasse became a culinary icon" by Jörg Zipprick, Co-founder and editor-in-chief of La Liste (© Jörg Zipprick la Liste)

A breathtaking opening from Italy’s most exciting chef. In 2022, Riccardo Canella returned to his homeland after seven years at Noma, taking on the Executive Chef role at Belmond’s Hotel Cipriani and promising to “add a bit of zing into the classical mix” and to “craft what I hope will be a new Italian cuisine”. Il Porticciolo, an open-air restaurant and oyster bar with priceless views of the Venetian lagoon, serves the best local produce styled with Canella’s expertise, from raw seafood platters and calamarata pasta with Adriatic red tuna, to risotto with seaweed oil, alongside a selection of vintage champagnes.

Only open a few months, Pharaoh is already a must-visit modern classic in the Greek capital. The chic and spacious natural wine bar serves traditional dishes with contemporary twists to a hip Athenian crowd, such as tomato and manouri cheese salad, chestnut casserole, and stuffed cabbage leaves. The open kitchen features a wood-fire grill turning out wild boar and octopus. Alongside the industrial concrete and steel aesthetic comes a foot-tapping vinyl playlist. Pharoah’s winning blend is thanks to its four owners, the travel and food editor Fotis Vallatos, chef Manolis Papoutsakis, Greek opera singer Dimitris Platanias, and wine expert Perry Panagiotakopoulos. Much has been made of Pharaoh’s strict two-hour dining slots - everyone wants to stay longer, but there’s always someone in line for your table!

Although small in size, the 2km2 coastal city of Monaco is a gastronomic capital and a leader in environmental responsibility and biodiversity. It stands out as a food lovers destination thanks to the growth in both number and diversity of its restaurants, from fine dining institutions such as Le Louis XV Alain Ducasse in the Hotel de Paris Monte Carlo, to sustainability champions like Elsa from Mélanie Serre at the Monte Carlo Beach resort, all the way to its many casual beachfront restaurants and party hotspots. Indulge in Monagesque classics and local oysters, or international cuisine such as Peruvian at COYA, Japanese at Yoshi or Lebanese at Em Sherif. As a city, Monaco is committed to keeping its waters and coast clean and protected, and its restaurants set a similar example with a strong commitment to ethics and sustainability throughout.

When Antonia Klugmann found this 17th century mill in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, east of Venice near the Italian-Slovenian border, it offered the perfect spot for Klugmann’s first restaurant. She spent four years renovating to create a small dining room - only 18 covers - with spellbinding views of both the countryside and Klugmann at work in her kitchen. Her elegant style is guided by the seasons and region, therefore the two tasting menus and small à la carte change frequently and she is inspired by ingredients rather than bound to tradition, pairing Jerusalem artichokes with baccalà, beef carpaccio with bone marrow and cavolo nero, and creating stunning pasta such as beetroot ravioli with roast chicory, and corn gnocchi with Parmesan extraction and juniper oil. Though off the beaten track, there are three rooms for diners to stay the night - especially useful if you’ve fully explored the regional wine list!

Chef patron Youssef Akiki traveled the world, doing apprenticeships with Alain Ducasse, Nicolas le Bec, and Joel Robuchon, among many others, before returning to his childhood village in Lebanon, Hrajel, to open Brût, which he describes as “a true culinary journey in the middle of nature”. The farm-to-table restaurant serves exquisite Levantine cuisine using local produce, from saffron and squash to oranges, figs, and many herbs from nearby Mount Lebanon. As well as Brût, Akiki operates in Beirut and Dubai, and is a significant voice in Lebanese hospitality.

Giovanni Bolandrini, CEO of the Pier88 Group and restaurant, has designed a restaurant he describes as ‘fine dining à l'Egyptienne’ with a breathtaking view of the last wonder of the ancient world, the pyramids at Giza, and a substantial terrace. The restaurant promises a ‘revived’ Egyptian cuisine and a selection of pastries. Chef Mostafa Seif's dishes include enticing traditional dishes such as roz mu'ammar (baked rice) and koshari salad, a bowl of lentils, rice, chickpeas, with a tomato sauce and crispy onions, served in contemporary interiors of natural wood and stone, which complement the incredible views.

Chef Neria Kalantarov has created something magical at her vegan Tel Aviv restaurant, Meshek Barzilay. She uses seasonal Middle Eastern produce to create dishes unique to her imagination but influenced by many international cuisines. You might find black bean tempeh on almond cream, beetroot pockets with ajo blanco, eggplant ceviche with seaweed, and tamarind tofu. For dessert, try coconut and cashew cheesecake or aquafaba lemon meringue pie. There’s a buzzy indoor bar area but the real hidden gem is the outdoor terrace, a secret garden kind of space, which is transformed at night with hundreds of fairy lights. This is high-end plant-based dining in enchanting surroundings.

Are you ready to reach culinary heaven? Look no further than chef Sarah Vuk Brajko's Piran restaurant La Bottega dei Sapori, formerly the birthplace and workshop of violinist Giuseppe Tartini. Vuk Brajko's cooking is a perfect combination of the old Piran tradition, blending Italian food with French technique. The heritage dishes such as the Piran fish soup and cuttlefish goulash with polenta are interesting to newcomers to the region, and for those lucky enough to be in town during the truffle season, white or black, don't miss the truffle menu.

Sisters Maria and Teresa Solivellas strive to replicate the flavors and feelings of home cooking at their Mallorcan restaurant in the village of Caimari at the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana. Their kitchen is strictly seasonal, with everything made by hand and mostly cooked on fire. The aim is to preserve local food heritage with simple dishes and forgotten ingredients, in the relaxed atmosphere of the traditional stone building. Their Mallorquín tasting menus are true examples of hyperlocal cuisine. “The wealth of a product does not depend on its market value, but on its proximity, its freshness, and its taste,” say the Solivellas.

Giancarlo Zigante, a tool maker from Plovanija in Istria, stumbled upon the biggest white truffle ever found in the 90s, in an ancient forest in Motovun. The discovery of the white truffle, registered in the Guinness Book of Records at a weight of 1.31kg, inspired Zigante to open his restaurant with rooms dedicated to truffle dishes in the heart of Livade, and organize a truffle festival. He transforms Istrian truffles into dishes such as egg with fresh black truffle, creamed potato, salted quail egg yolk, and Gruyere cheese, or oyster mushroom with amaranth and horseradish.

Alaf, the culinary wonderland of chef Deniz Temel, is an enchanting restaurant that will take your taste buds on an unforgettable journey. Alaf means burning flame in nomadic dialect, an appropriate name for a restaurant that thrives on its roots. Alaf reflects Istanbul’s rich cultural mix in the diversity of the dishes, from Kurdish and Armenian to Yezidi. Alaf is notable for Temel's passion for quality ingredients. He sources from the best suppliers, including Mehmet Abi and his wife Arzu Hanım's pomegranate syrup, Hermus olive oil, and produce from Damlica Farm and Teofarm in Antakya, which sends Alaf the specialty flour they use to make sourdough. Their bread is baked over wood, filling the restaurant with nostalgic smells. There’s a great view from the terrace, too.

A welcoming bistro hidden on the lower ground floor of a 17th century palazzo in Valletta, the capital of Malta, with a menu flush with the island’s finest produce. Guzé has been open for over a decade and chef Mark Dimech and owner Joseph Cauchi serve traditional national and Mediterranean cuisine to a contemporary clientele. There’s rabbit with blood orange, wild boar with truffle cream, lobster with preserved lemon, and octopus with mandarin and tomato confit - and that’s only the starters. There are also tasting menus themed around land and sea.

Chef Rabah Ourrad is making waves in the food world following a career in North African hip-hop as the frontman of an Algerian rap group. His interests turned to French literature and cooking when he moved from his hometown of Algiers to Paris, where he worked in a number of large Parisian brasseries before moving to Barcelona and becoming head chef at El Cafeti. In the UK, he worked at Sketch, The Ledbury, and Momo, before opening Wormwood, where his menu caught the eye of food critic Fay Maschler who named it one of her top 10 openings for 2014. When he returned home to Algeria, he judged the first season of Masterchef and opened his own restaurant, Mim, with dishes such as lamb shoulder rolled with hummus and garlic sauce.

Ergon is the brainchild of entrepreneurial brothers Thomas and Giorgos Douzis, who have made it their mission to promote Greek gastronomy and become leading global ambassadors for high quality Greek food and culinary culture. The brothers founded Ergon in 2009, opening the first concept store in Thessaloniki with a selection of traditionally-made, premium Greek products, sourced from small independent producers, and there are now 23 company-owned or franchise delis in Greece, Cyprus, the UK, and Qatar. The delicatessens are also café-restaurants serving modern versions of traditional dishes, and their success has led to the opening of Ergon House Athens, a boutique hotel with a food market on the first floor, where guests can purchase pasta, baked goods, meat, cheese, and other fresh local products, as well as a restaurant serving creative Greek cuisine.

Chef Nadia Sammut is a culinary visionary who is changing the way we think about food. Born into a family of female chefs in Luberon in southern France, she is the first gluten-free chef to achieve international recognition, though she has stayed physically close to her roots with Auberge La Fenière in her hometown of Lourmarin. Sammut’s holistic approach to cooking and eating makes sure what we put into our mouths is as good for body and soul as it is for the planet. But rather than creating ‘free-from’ dishes, she creates food that everyone can eat, a way of life rather than a single meal. Terroir is inherent in everything she does, and Sammut works closely with local producers, is a strong advocate for farmers, and promotes sustainable farming practices. She is dedicated to destigmatizing fine dining to prove it can be for everyone, whatever diet you follow, and trains chefs and medical professionals at her Institut de Cuisine Libre.

The recent earthquake in Turkey has affected an astonishing 20 million people, leaving many homeless and without food or other basic necessities. Turkey’s chefs immediately organized themselves to get aid to the victims, connecting on social media and working all hours. One of the first to act was Fatih Tutak, who set off at 3am to drive a six-person team from Istanbul to İskenderun with food supplies for earthquake victims. Gökmen Sözen, known for bringing chefs from all over the world to Turkey through the Gastromasa organization, gathered volunteer chefs and organized their efforts using his vast network of industry contacts, setting up a solidarity group to respond to the tragedy. Many chefs have worked tirelessly to help the earthquake victims, and La Liste is giving the Community Spirit award to Tutak and Sözen on behalf of all of them during this difficult time.

Mélanie Serre brings an exceptional commitment to sustainability to Elsa, the Monte-Carlo Beach resort’s flagship restaurant, aligning environmental responsibility with culinary excellence and creativity. She focuses on local and organic ingredients - many from her own kitchen garden - and building lasting relationships with those supplying Elsa with fresh produce, olive oil, wild peaches, local meat and seafood, and regional wines - she has added a selection of natural wines to Elsa’s list. “Provenance is fundamental to what I do,” she explains. “Working hand in hand with local producers brings me great pleasure as well as inspiration and creativity. Diners will be treated to a feast of flavors this year, prepare to be surprised!”

Bruno Cirino doesn’t seek out the limelight but remains one of the most respected chefs in the profession. After working with great names like Roger Vergé, Alain Ducasse, and Jacques Maximin, Bruno Cirino has also trained a generation of young talents, the best known of whom is perhaps Christophe Pelé (Le Clarence, Paris). Since 1999, Bruno Cirino has been at the helm of Hostellerie Jérôme, a fine dining restaurant and hotel in the town of La Turbie in the hills above Monaco. The chef is known for being a fervent champion of local produce as well as commanding huge respect for his technique. Bruno and his wife Marion offer guests a warm welcome and a breathtaking view of the Lerins Islands from their terrace. On the menu you’ll find roast lobster with wild plums, brandy, and brioche, red mullet filet with saffron jus, breaded pigeon with a black olive and Bandol wine reduction, prawns with Bellini and verbena, as well as langoustines with lemon, lemongrass, and jasmine.

Chef Rocco Iannone's Tenuta Nannina is a must-visit restaurant in the picturesque town of Penta di Fisciano, east of Pompei. The family business includes his wife as front of house, grandmother ‘Nannina’, who inspired Rocco’s love of cooking, and his parents, who farm the land Tenuta Nannina stands. The restaurant is a bespoke modern building surrounded by green trees and vegetable gardens. The menu is strictly seasonal with an emphasis on fresh fish that varies from day to day, and a daily specials board. The simple but elegant dishes are all rooted in tradition but with a Rocco twist. Start with something fresh from the garden, like corn on the cob, followed by sea bass carpaccio with porcini mushrooms, octopus with green beans, or a simple spaghetti in anchovy sauce.

Dar el Jeld is a culinary gem hidden in the historic old town of Tunis. Housed in an unassuming building, this elegant restaurant has a traditional old-world feel, and a hearty welcome as soon as you walk through the heavy wooden doors. The restaurant is known for its heritage dishes, prepared from regional produce with Dar El Jeld’s more than three decades of experience and expertise. Among the most popular specialties are couscous, tagine, and brik, pies made with very fine, filo-like pastry. There is also a wide selection of Tunisian wines to complement the food. Dar el Jeld is also an elegant hotel with a rooftop bar - an unmissable stop on any trip to Tunis.

29-year-old Valencian Vicky Sevilla is chef of Arrels in Sagunto, a small town on the Mediterranean making waves thanks to this young talent. The word ‘arrels’ means ‘roots’, and Sevilla’s style is to create nostalgic dishes from local ingredients, with the intention of feeding her memories to guests. Recent dishes include grilled eel with tarragon hollandaise and fig, bonito with Mediterranean herb granita, and ajo blanco with goose barnacles. Sevilla credits self-sacrifice, vocation, and enthusiasm for her successes so far, and dreams of opening her restaurant in a hotel, so she can feed her friends dinner, have them stay over, and make breakfast the next morning. Count us in!

As executive chef of Zinfandel’s and Le Bistro at the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, Ana Grgić Tomić is a leading figure in Croatian fine dining. Before returning to her home country, she worked with Yves Mattagne at The Sea Grill in Brussels and Christian Lohse at Fischer’s Fritz in Berlin. During her decade at the helm of the Esplanade, she has made it a dinner destination for gourmet visitors to the city and cooked for dignitaries including President Biden and King Charles, who asked for her risotto recipe. She is also a pioneer of the zero food waste movement in Croatia, making innovative use of whole ingredients in her modern interpretations of classic Croatian and Mediterranean cuisine.

DRC-born chef Hugues Mbenda has named his Marseille restaurant KIN as an abbreviation of the city of his birth, Kinshasa, the place where he developed his taste for cooking and good food, thanks to his mother, Jeanne, who owned a street food café. Today, Mbenda blends local Marseillan produce with African ingredients and the skills learned at the Lycée Escoffier and in top kitchens in Paris and London. Think onion crème brulée with manioc chips, and cacao crumble with passion fruit and cilantro. In 2021, he opened Libala with co-founder Mathilde Godart, and in February 2023 the pair opened KIN, their offering bistronomique with a six-course menu set to change every two weeks.

Tel Aviv’s Raz Rahav has recreated Israeli cuisine for the 21st century with his tasting menu restaurant OCD, where he personally preps and plates each of the 19 courses for the 19 diners seated at his counter. Named on the Forbes Under 30 list at just 25, Rahav is committed to sustainability and seasonality and draws on food and history from across Israel, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean, serving Israeli caviar, Ashkenazi dumplings, buckwheat puffs, miso hummus, bay leaf crème brûlée, and olive oil marmalade. He is as obsessive and compulsive about his menu as he was in 2016, when OCD opened, but don’t expect a buttoned-up atmosphere!

There is a lot of competition for the title of ‘best sunset’ on our stunning Mediterranean coast, but Croatia’s Laganini Lounge Bar & Fish House has an impressive claim thanks to its exclusive location and exemplary food from chef Matko Bukovec. The restaurant, part of the Palmižana island resort and only accessible by boat from Hvar, has been open for half a century. Today, Bukovec creates predominantly seafood dishes in the Dalmatian style. Make sure you check daylight hours and book to eat drenched in the red glow of Croatia’s incomparable sunset.

The restaurant of the hotel La Chèvre d'Or is situated in a stone tower and has around 200km of panoramic views, all the way to the bay of St Tropez. From this vantage point, 400m above sea level in the tiny town of Eze, even the grand promenades of Nice and Cannes fade into tiny points of light, while during the day the paragliders can almost look customers in the eye. Dishes include cherry tomatoes stuffed with burrata and basil, Niçoise olives, and fig leaf infusion, mackerel escabeche, crunchy fennel with bottarga, octopus confit with olive oil, beets, roast lamb, Niçoise zucchini, and cherries spiced-up with harissa, apricot, buckwheat, and tarragon from chef Arnaud Faye.

An upscale beach restaurant with a cinematic view of the sea and a 200-cover terrace. Chef Alexis Zopas focuses on fresh, regional ingredients to create a light, modern cuisine that blends Greek flavors with modern touches. The menu offers a variety of dishes: sun-ripened tomatoes with goat cheese and thyme, shrimp steamed in ouzo, freshly-landed fish of the day grilled over charcoal, and high quality meat, which might come with zucchini, mint, lima beans, and cinnamon. Beautiful, fresh food to fit the stunning island surroundings.

A must-visit destination if you want a piece of Mykonos’s legendary fashion scene. This exclusive beach club brings together great design and service along with its unique ambience. Nammos has a formal dining room serving Greek and Italian dishes, a beautifully decorated lounge, and an open-air beach club with the most glamorous crowd in Mykonos and a menu including fish, shellfish, and cured meats. The club also has a luxury shopping area, Nammos Village, where you can find high-end brands, accessories, and unique local pieces. In addition, Nammos has a sandy beach with water sports, as well as the Riva Private Yacht Deck for a memorable boat ride.

The terrace of La Réserve de Beaulieu bears an uncanny resemblance to Scott Fitzgerald's vision of the French Riviera in Tender is the Night, in which he describes a large and proud pink hotel surrounded by palm trees. When the night sky is lit only by the glow from Cap-Ferrat, and the sea illuminated only by spotlights from the boats, one suddenly understands what Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Fernand Lèger, Henri Matisse, and Pablo Picasso found so inspiring on this coast.